For those not in the beauty know, the very thought of putting acids on your skin is enough to trigger alarming thoughts but the reality is that cosmetic scientists have been incorporating Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AKA AHA’s) into skincare products since the 1970’s as they are considered to be ‘game-changing’ when it comes to achieving a flawless and youthful complexion.
AHA’s are a family of naturally occurring acids and hold the title as the most popular exfoliating acids in the skincare sphere. Although there are many types of exfoliating acids that fall under the AHA umbrella the most common AHA’s you’ll hear about are Glycolic Acid (derived from sugar cane), Lactic Acid (derived from milk), Mandelic Acid (derived from bitter almonds), Malic Acid (derived from apples) and Citric Acid (derived from citrus fruits). They are all considered ‘skincare superheroes’ because they can solve a myriad of skin care concerns such as smoothing an uneven skin texture, balancing oil levels, refining the appearance of enlarged pores, ramping up radiance and reducing visible sun damage not to mention the fact they are all natural humectants so really encourage hydration. It’s fair to say AHA’s go above and beyond the call of duty.
As skin cells die, they can often clump together and get stuck on top of the skin. These dead and dulling skin cells hanging around on your skin’s surface do no one any good which is where AHA’s step in. These ‘smooth movers’ primarily exfoliate these dead cells from the skin surface by dissolving the bonds that hold them together in a controlled manner so that they are gently soughed away. The level of exfoliation is determined by the type of AHA you use as they all differ in size, penetration, and potency.
The different types of Alpha Hydroxy Acids:
Glycolic acid Made from sugarcane; this is the smallest molecular weight acid but with some of the biggest benefits. Whilst dissolving dead cells, this multi-tasking marvel initiates collagen synthesis, triggering cellular renewal and boosting hyaluronic acid in the lower skin layers. Easy to weave into any routine this re-texturizing hero plumps fine lines and wrinkles, fades pigmentation, diminishes scarring and amplifies luminosity.
Lactic acid: With larger molecules than its sibling, Lactic Acid is derived from milk and offers a gentler exfoliation making it ideal for sensitive skin. One of the things the ancient Egyptian Queen Cleopatra did to keep her renowned beauty routine was to take daily sour milk baths to achieve softer skin. Recovering lost luminosity, Lactic Acid doubles as a powerful humectant, attracting moisture, making it a real winner for dry skin
Mandelic acid: Derived from bitter almonds, Mandelic Acid has one of the largest particle sizes allowing it to absorb into skin more slowly, uniformly, and superficially. The best pick for sensitive skins and deeper skin tones, it is melanotoxic (in other words it does not damage melanin-producing cells) and can decrease the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting melanin production in the deeper skin layers making it ideal for treating sun-induced pigmentation. It’s also known to suck up acne-causing bacteria and oil clogging up your pores, a bit like an electricity-free Dyson so expect your complexion to look cleaner and sparklier than ever.
Malic acid: The word Malic Acid comes from the Latin word malum which means apple. Can you recall the tart taste of apples? Malic Acid is responsible for that. It is your superhero ingredient if you want to smooth wrinkles and improve the overall texture of your skin whilst it gently chemically exfoliates dead skin cells away. Malic Acid is naturally produced in the body and aids movement by converting carbohydrates into energy so without Malic Acid getting from A to B will be significantly more difficult. Boasting humectant assets, it is often used for its pH balancing properties, where it expertly attracts moisture from the air and traps it in the skin helping to restore a state of equilibrium.
Citric acid: Naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, limes and grapefruits, this effective exfoliator is not to be confused with Vitamin C. A staple of many skincare formulas Citric Acid is an acidic antioxidant and helps combat oxidative stress meaning it is good for treating sun damage, hyperpigmentation and will protect the skin against environmental pollution. As a natural astringent it control sebum build-up and helps dry out excess oil leaving the complexion looking and feeling squeaky clean.
AHA’s are a gold standard ingredient for all things anti-ageing and are industry adored for their almost magical effect on skin. Encouraging skin to shed its dead weight, tackling overall texture and tone, and brightening even the most sensitive complexions without ruffling their feathers, whatever your skin goals are AHA’s can make a BIG impact on helping you reach them.
Lucy x
